Vivienne Westwood The woman of a thousand influences

Table of contents Introduction............................................................................................................. 3

The Punk subculture............................................................................................. 4 The origins ...................................................................................................... 4 The culture ..................................................................................................... 5 “Queen Viv” and the Sex Pistols ................................................................. 5 The punk esthetic by Dame Westwood .................................................. 8

Updating the past to create the future............................................................ 10 The Renaissance inspirations................................................................... 11 The Baroque inspirations ........................................................................ 12 The Rococo inspirations ........................................................................... 13

Social involvement............................................................................................. 16 A soldier of the environment.................................................................... 16 ... and humanitarian causes ......................................................................17 Save the artic collection ............................................................................ 18

Conclusion.............................................................................................................20 References.............................................................................................................21

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Introduction

The “Mother of Punk”, Vivienne Westwood, was one of the first British designers to be recognized worldwide – since the end of 1970s - and contributed in awarding London its status of international fashion capital.

The self-educated designer left her footprint in the history of fashion with collections bearing the appellations of “Pirates” (Fall/Winter1981), “Savage” (Spring /Summer 1982) and “Buffalo Girls” (Autumn / Winter 1983) among others gathering revolutionary designs for RTW: ripped-off garments ornamented with skulls, latex dresses worthy of sex shops costumes, tartan bondage trousers, etc. Her work was a reflection of the social, economical and political instability the U.K was going through and gave youth the voice it was looking for. This way she became, along with her partner (in business and in privacy) of the time Malcolm McLaren, one of the most important pioneer of the punk movement; a status she is still recognized for nowadays.

Throughout the years Dame Westwood kept aptitude to flair the present climate and respond to it in the most provoking and unexpected design while remaining altruistic and selfless. To amaze, “Queen Viv” resources to new technologies such as the development of new printing techniques and a personal dedication to being a positive influence on the behaviors towards the environment and the planet.

Some of the most influent fashion designers recognized the influence of Vivienne Westwood on their work. Among these are Yohji Yamamoto a strong figure of the Japonism movement on the Parisian fashion scene but also John Galliano that became famous in the late 1980s then headed the artistic direction of Christian Dior (1996 – 2011) and Maison Martin Margiela (2014 – today).

The also called “Queen Viv” has been named three times British fashion designer of the year and has made the headline of a retrospective exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. Today she can count a total of 20 boutiques worldwide carrying her name (among which three are located in London), 40 corners within the most important department stores and more than 500 sales points, while his name is being supported by five press offices located in the big fashion capitals (London, Paris, Milan, New York and Los Angeles) while one third of her international production is sold in Japan.

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The Origins

The Punk subculture

Above the souvenir of power cuts, strikes, IRA bombings and shocking headlines the 1970 in the U.K have known four prime ministers, four general elections and five official states of emergency. The instable political atmosphere added to a recession caused by the end of a long boom along with the 1973 oil crisis plunged the country into a dark period.

The defeat of the conservatives in 1974 in favor of the labor party seemed as the light et the end the tunnel for the British population. However, the hopes for stability quickly vanished with the worsening of an already critical political situation to the where the ministers “urged citizens to share baths and brush their teeth in the dark” (- Marr, ‘Chaos, rubbish and revolution’)

The blurred perspectives of future have drawn a cleavage between the governing classes and the working class and particularly the younger generation that was feeling left behind. This precariousness was sang about by the band “The Clash” in their song career opportunity:

“They offered me the office, offered me the shop They said I’d better take anything they’d got Do you wanna make tea at the BBC?

Do you wanna be, do you really want to be a cop?

Career opportunities, the ones that never knock Every job they offer you is to keep you out the dock Career opportunities, the ones that never knock.”

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The Culture

In an effort of rebellion the punk movement was born carried by its distinctive music style overwhelmed with fury to which belong, among the most famous, “The Sex Pistols” and “The Ramones”. The Punk anti-conformism was also and more visibly expressed through a provocative fashion style. The 430, King’s Road store renamed “SEX” in 1974 healed by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren was the place to shop for garments made out latex, leather and chains put together with safety pins.

For the historical record: A London citizen Vivienne Westwood was a schoolteacher while married to Derek Westwood in 1962. The”Qir relationship have lasted three years. After what she met Malcom McLaren in 1965. He was the one who turns Vivienne Westwood to the world of fashion because as he was a big lover of clothes. In 1971, they opened a provocative concept boutique shop first called “Let it Rock” then renamed “Sex” in 1974. It became the outlet beyond nonconformist creations.

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